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Cast Iron


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Thermal Imaging Tricks


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B.O.S.S. Bug Out Bag Series | Ultimate! Fire Kit


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15 Things You Think You Know About Faraday Cages But You Don’t

15 Things You Think You Know About Faraday Cages But You Don’t

This article takes into consideration only the effects of a nuclear EMP, not a solar flare. A solar flare would only affect any electronics connected to the grid.

#1. Will a microwave work as a Faraday cage?

No. If an EMP strikes, you will notice that all your electronic devices that you stored in a microwave oven will be rendered useless. The microwave is not a Faraday cage.

#2. Will a refrigerator work as a Faraday cage?

No, most refrigerators do not work as a Faraday cage. I tested mine, and it’s definitely not a Faraday cage.

#3. If I keep a backup mobile phone in my Faraday cage, will it work when I need it?

Yes, your phone will work perfectly. However, it will be rendered almost useless because the network will not be functional. The only form of communication after an EMP will be the radio. Click here to find out what radio you should keep in your Faraday cage.

#4. Do I need to store batteries in a Faraday cage?

No. They will continue to work regardless and will just take up space in your Faraday cage. Here are the best batteries for survival situations.

#5. Do Faraday cages need grounding?

No.

#6. Do I need to keep my solar panels in a Faraday cage?

No. The only part of the system you have to worry about is your solar panel inverter. Don’t worry about your solar panels; they will be fine. It’s best to buy an extra inverter and keep it in your Faraday cage so you can replace the useless one after the EMP.

#7. If I wrap electronic devices in heavy duty aluminum foil, will that work?

No. But if you wrap the cardboard box in which you bought them in heavy duty aluminum foil, this would be an effective Faraday cage. Here are the step-by-step instructions.

#8. Will flashlights continue to function after an EMP Strike?

Some flashlights will continue to function, and some will burn out. It all depends on the power and distance from the blast.

#9. Is a shipping container a Faraday cage?

Yes, but just remember that you can’t just put the electronic devices directly in contact with the metal. Some people board the interior of the container with wooden panels.

#10. Can I use this shipping container as a “Faraday garage” for my car?

Yes, you can definitely do that. Most cars fit in a standard shipping container, but just to make sure, go ahead and take the measurements before buying a shipping container.

#11. If you turn off your devices, will they be EMP-proof?

No.

#12. Are airplanes Faraday cages?

No. Planes operate on the basic principles of lift and thrust, so they will become more or less gliders. They will be very difficult to control and most of them will fall from the sky and crash.

#13. How do I test an object to see if it will work as a Faraday cage?

You can test any device that you think might work as a Faraday cage with a radio. Simply turn on the radio and place it inside the device. If the radio is still receiving a signal, then it’s not a Faraday cage. If you don’t have a radio, you can use a mobile phone, but the results won’t be 100% accurate in the sense that if your mobile phone still rings, then it’s definitely not a Faraday cage, but if it does not, you can’t really be sure. You need to test it with a radio to be 100% sure you have a Faraday cage.

#14. Can you EMP-proof a car?

emp carYou could build a Faraday cage, but this would mean that you will either never use your car or will need to buy a new one. I’ve seen some pictures online of people wrapping them in aluminum, but as I said previously, it’s pointless.

Instead of making your car EMP-proof, I think you would be better off buying an old, cheap car that has an electric system that is a lot less vulnerable. Here are the top 10 EMP proof vehicles.

#15. Will a galvanized steel trash can make a good Faraday cage?

Yes, but the can has to close perfectly, and you will have to line the walls with cardboard.


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Going Mad Max

PLEASE NOTE: I didn’t get this article out in time and the green reels from the video are currently cleaned out on Ebay. There is still a good supply of the higher quality helical coils, which are slightly more expensive and much heavier and less portable.

Razor Wire on Ebay – $25 and up on Ebay

I have tried for a couple weeks now to broaden the picture of why we may need all of this junk that I cover, and this week we are on the topic of perimeter security. These days there is a stereotypical “Prepper” character in all of our minds that we got from movies and cable, and most of us think of that character as an “extremist.” If you think that the extent of your prepping only needs to cover a 3 day snow emergency or a 2 week hurricane outage, good luck to you. This column is about the end of our food and consumption infrastructure, and I believe that it may be imminent.

If you paint a picture of that stereotypical character’s compound, it is probably either an underground bunker, or a camp surrounded by razor wire, or both. I won’t get into the soundness of an underground solution for this week, but I would like to turn you on to a good source of razor wire.

You can’t buy razor wire based on pure length. Generally you set it up in coils that would force someone to climb over, and that gives you less than 1/3rd the coverage for whatever length you purchase. For instance, there are 328 feet in the roll you see in the video, but in coils it won’t cover more than 100 feet, and probably a lot less. There are basically two types of razor wire:

  • Military Razor Wire – In the video you will see green plastic packages of coiled razor wire. They are replicas of Vietnam era cans, and are made in China. One package is under $30. As you can see in the video, it is really just stamped ribbons of galvanized sheeting, and the coil is a reel, not a true coil. You have to make your own coils when you mount it on the top of a fence. I didn’t get this article out in time and right now the reels are sold out on Ebay.
  • Helical Razor Wire – This is the real deal. The coils are stacked on top of each other and retain their shape with a cannalure and internal thick wire along the length that gives it an actual loops structure. I didn’t buy any because it takes up a lot of space, and it is about 75 cents per linear foot of coverage. For me space has become a real issue, and I want things to be somewhat portable if possible. Real razor wire is nasty stuff, and it is heavy and bulky, and I haven’t decided to dedicate that much space money and effort to it.

Perimeter Security

Visually, I think the ribbon wire is nearly as effective as the real stuff, especially when you don’t have the real stuff side by side. And that brings me back to the whole subject of perimeter security itself.

Do you want to try to hide and hope that nobody stumbles on you, with no outside evidence that you have a stocked and fortified location? There is a strong argument for it I think. But in the real world, your neighbors have been watching stuff go into your house, and perhaps several of them know that you have supplies. In a survival situation, word is going to get around that you have food, and people will come for it. Without some type of perimeter security, they are going to be on your doorstep, and most likely they will be armed. I can’t tell you how many people, including my best friend, who have said “I don’t need to stock up food I have guns.”

My feeling is that once it becomes obvious that the jig is up, there are going to be people looting what they can, and checking for resources where they think people are not home. Most people have no more than a few days of food in their house, so the looting is going to come quick once it becomes obvious that the FEMA trucks won’t be showing up.

Historically, opportunity crime like looting is like electricity. It seeks the path of least resistance. So if your home, or your bugout location, has a fence, and the neighbor doesn’t have a fence, it is more likely that the neighbor will be attacked first. If you have a razor wire fence, it may not be perceived as worth it to even come back to your house, when softer targets have presented themselves ahead.

The exception would be an organized group of looters who are targeting resource caches. I think the danger of this is far more exaggerated in the movies than it will be in real life. But like everything else, I’m just guessing. My feeling is that we as a society in America rely on “just in time” inventory and supply lines far more than anyone could ever even consider in prior generations. Most homes don’t even have a pantry, and most supermarkets have little if any backroom stock these days. Walmart unloads wrapped mixed restock pallets from the trucks and wheels them right to the shelves. There is no back stock at all.

Therefore, most people are going to die within a couple weeks. There just isn’t going to be enough food to even steal. If you have perimeter security and determent, I think you will be much more secure than the end of the world movies would suggest.

Are We Going Mad Max?

I have explained here a few times that I am actually a man of pretty consistent “faith.” And I do believe that the Creator has a master plan that is ultimately good, but I have also accepted that it may come with some difficulties in the real world. I feel like I have been led to not only prepare for the end of this present society, but also to have the courage to use my real name in a very public place to millions of readers and teach all of these crazy things I have learned along the way.

Last week I included a video in my post of Dane Wigington from Geoengineeringwatch.org that explained a bit of “what is really going on” out there. If you don’t choose to believe it, and insist on calling the white trails behind the planes “chemtrails” and a “conspiracy theory,” it is your right to do so. But there is an awaking that is exploding across the world right now, and many people who would have been closed off to the truth only a few months ago will now be willing to open their eyes.

Certainly there are more hidden truths out there than just the rampant global arming and the top secret geoengineering programs that were designed to combat it. Dane’s website was put on that list of “Russian fake news” sites that the Washington Post propagated to what they assumed were the sleeping masses. But most people weren’t sleeping, and the blowback made them even retract the story. The game is ending and the legacy power structure seems to be losing control.

Donald Trump right now is a wildcard. In 140 characters or less, he could send the world into an end of the world pandemonium with one Tweet that the arctic ice cap is all the way melted, and for all we know it might be, and this is being covered up. John Kerry was in Antarctica on election day! Why? And more importantly, why would they ever admit that? I keep my ear to the ground as much as I can, and I can tell you, things are getting squirly out there.

They could pull the pin on the financial system any day. We are several times overextended with derivatives and sovereign debt than we were for the 2008 crash. They could crash the financial system intentionally, just to cover up the climate engineering.

At this point there are so many people caught up in the lies that our entire existence is a tinder box, waiting for a spark to ignite it. The child trafficking scandal Pizza-Gate is right there in the Podesta emails that nobody claims aren’t his. Trump could Tweet arrest warrants the day he is sworn in. What happens when the truth starts to pop like popcorn? 911, Oklahoma, Sandy Hook, Boston, Orlando, all of these events were faked in total or in part, and when the sleeping masses wake up to it all, there will be blood.

I hope G-d bails us out with that Redemption stuff that He promised in several books of the Prophets. And I hope it is easy. But I also will ask yourself and the survival of your family seriously, just from the simple fact that you are reading this right now. People will survive. Perhaps you are meant to be one of them.

 


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Bug Out- Building a Load out Plan for Your Vehicle

Bug Out- Building a Load out Plan for Your Vehicle

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4.34/5 (124) Editor’s Note: This post is another entry in the Prepper Writing Contest from GoodPrepper. If you have information for Preppers that you would like to share and possibly win a $300 Amazon Gift Card to purchase your own prepping supplies, enter today.


Most people’s primary plan is to bug out by vehicle which makes a lot of sense given how much further you can travel and how much more you can carry. Most of us have a bug out bag that we have packed and repacked (and repacked again) and we know exactly how much it will hold and what goes where. Now how many of you have done this for your vehicle?

If you haven’t, I think you will find much like you probably did with your bug out bag, space fills up FAST!

Today I’m going to teach you one way to plan for a vehicle load out, this will do two things for you, first it will save you time in an emergency by helping you know in advance of the balloon going up what all will fit in your vehicle and where it goes. Also I will help you develop a plan to secure the load so you can travel more safety.

So where to begin? First get out a piece of paper and list out the things you intend to pack. Hopefully by now in your preps you have seen the advantage of using bins or bags to group items so you are able to stay organized and load large amounts of stuff quickly.

Next prioritize these items, what if your loading gets cut short and you have to stop what you are doing and immediately get on the road? What would you want going in there first? For my wife and I it would be our Bug Out Bags and primary weapons followed by water, medical kit, food, spare gas, tools, ham radio equipment, generator, and finally personal luggage.

Plano 1919 Sportsman’s Trunk

Once you have the list prioritized draw out the rough shape of your vehicle’s interior and start “filling” it with the items you plan to pack. So if you know you medical bag is about 1/3 of the width of the back of your SUV then draw that there with the giant vehicle repair and recovery box that you think takes up about 2/3 the width of the back of your SUV next to it. Now what can go on top of that? What can go behind it? At this point you may have to make trade-offs as to what on the priority list gets loaded first because something heavy just has to go on the bottom. That’s okay.

Now if you plan to put a cargo carrier on the trailer hitch, pull an actual trailer, or have a roof rack start “filling” this up as well. As I mentioned above spare gas is high on my priority list but obviously this is stored outside the car.

Okay so now we have a rough plan all done without having to lift anything. If you aren’t great at estimating dimensions you can speed up the accuracy of your first round draft by measuring the inside of your car and then measure some of the larger bulkier items while making your paper draft. Because I had been camping with most the items in the past I sort of knew how much room most of my things took up.

Now it’s time to physically go out and bring each item to your vehicle and see if your plan works. You will discover several things when you go to do this. First your stuff is ALL OVER THE PLACE! How many trips did you make to the basement, garage, kitchen, bedroom, storage room, storage shed, etc? Lots and in some case things weren’t where you thought they were. Imagine going through that for the first time in an emergency?! So while you are gathering the things on your list just note where they are like: “Med kit- Basement top shelf”.

Roof top storage is an often overlooked place to store many items. Make sure you have appropriate tie down materials.

I don’t expect you to store everything in one place, for one thing while it would be awesome to have everything stored two feet behind my truck but my garage isn’t heated and cooled so I wouldn’t want to store medicine in there for example. Second I don’t want all of my preps on display every time I open my garage door! So it’s okay to store things you plan to bug out with in different places but try to limit the total number as best you can and document where each item is. As an added hack I put a small piece of bright red duct tape on each item that is part of my vehicle load out to make it easier to see on shelves next to everyday items that may not be going.

Having gear stored in one location is nice, but not always possible.

The second thing you may discover is you over estimated how much space you have or you fit it all in but in the case of a car instead of a truck you may find it riding on the bump stops. I was actually pleasantly surprised to find out I went too conservative and I had more room to stack things than I planned so I was able to add to my list. Either way now is the time to fine tune and in some cases make some tough decisions as to what doesn’t make the cut. Hopefully everything you pack is just bonus because you are headed to an already well stocked Bug Out Location but I know many folks aren’t there yet. If you do have a place to store things at your Bug out Location this might be time to think about what you can live without at your primary residence and go ahead and preposition more out there.

Once you have become Tetris-master 9000 and fit everything together as efficiently as possible and in an order that makes sense (all while documenting where it came from) you need to do two final things. First ensure the things you want to be able to get to (quickly in some cases) can be. How many times have you seen the people by the side of the road unloading a trunk full of stuff to get to their spare tire? Don’t be that guy! You should be able to get to anything you may reasonably expect to need to assist your vehicle in making it to your destination. Perhaps just as importantly you will need to be able to get to anything you plan to grab should you have to abandon the vehicle and head out on foot, possibly in a hurry!

Careful planning now can save hours of wasted time when you need it.

Lastly SECURE YOUR LOAD! My initial exposure to load out plans came from my very first days in the army when it was impressed upon us how devastating something like a couple of full ammo cans flying around a vehicle in the event of an accident or roll over could be to the occupants. Most of us can imagine the dangerous road conditions under which we may need to bug out and so the likelihood of an accident is much higher than during our normal daily drives. Add to this a loaded down vehicle that will not be able to respond or perform as well as normal and other stressed out drivers trying to make good their escape and you can see why all that stuff in your vehicle needs to be secured as best possible. If you have a pickup truck this is made easier by tie down points. Do you have the ratchet straps or cargo netting you need to do so? Inside of a car can get trickier but it can be made safer. For example the ammo cans I mentioned could be wedged down behind the back of the front seats on the floor board rather than stored on top of a box on the back seat parallel to the back of your head. Use your imagination and actually try tying things down to see if you have what you need. Now add those bungee cords, ropes, and ratchet straps to your list and note their location.

That’s it, you’ve done it, you have a load out plan. I recommend you practice fully loading your vehicle for a load out twice a year. It’s a pain but it will improve your time getting out the door, reveal any items that “magically” moved from where you thought they were stored, and remind you to make updates as your packing list and especially your vehicle possibly changes. Good luck and be safe out there!


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Bucket Berkey Faucet Upgrade


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Off Grid Water System

Underground POTABLE WATER STORAGE TANKS – Our Off Grid Water System

 


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Micro Hydro Power with Turgo generator



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